Faces of the Industry: Kelly Mertens of Gem Diamonds

In this item, ‘The Faces of the Industry,’ we bring one industry name to the spotlight every month. This person has been nominated by the previous ‘Face of the Industry’ and will appoint the one for next month.  

This month, we had the pleasure of interviewing Kelly Mertens, Sales Manager at Gem Diamonds. She has been working in the Antwerp diamond industry for almost 20 years now. She's responsible for running the two offices in Antwerp, Gem Diamonds and Baobab. The latter is their expert office, where they photograph and map the rough diamonds Gem Diamonds mine and sell. 

Please tell us more about the company you work for and your specific role there. 

Kelly Mertens: I work at Gem Diamonds, a mining company with one active asset in Lesotho. We’re known for our large, white stones. We receive a batch of rough diamonds sent directly from the mine to Antwerp every few weeks. Here, we process, sort, and value these diamonds and organize closed tenders. Antwerp is our only sales hub, meaning everything is processed and sold exclusively here. 

I manage two offices here. We have Gem Diamonds Marketing Services (GDMS), where we sort and organize tenders based on the diamonds we receive, sending tailored invitations to select clients. Next door is Baobab, which used to be a cutting factory but has since shifted to a diamond expertise centre. We now focus on photographing and analyzing stones there. My job is to run both offices. We’re a small team, with only five people, which has advantages and challenges. 

How did you find your way into the diamond industry? 

Mertens: I’ve been in the diamond industry since 2005—almost 20 years now. It’s truly an industry that, once you’re in, you don’t leave easily. I started at 21 with Key Diamonds, a buying office for Japan’s large chain, KASHIKEY, specializing in brown diamonds. My husband’s parents own a taxi company, and one of their clients worked in the industry. Through that connection, I heard Kimberley Fine Diamonds Australia was looking to open an office in Antwerp for tenders. I started working there as their only employee in Antwerp, overseeing the renovations and working there for about four or five years. Eventually, that company became part of Gem Diamonds, and that’s how the Letšeng production came our way, allowing us to sort, value, and sell the goods ourselves. 

In your opinion, what are Antwerp’s biggest strengths as a diamond hub? 

Mertens: Things have definitely changed over recent years, with Dubai becoming a challenge. But customers keep coming to Antwerp. For instance, when we hold tenders for smaller diamonds, most of our buyers are Indian. Many of them attend, bringing eight or nine clients of their own and holding mini-tenders among themselves, so there’s still a lot of interest here in Antwerp. 

Do end customers care about Antwerp being regarded as the most trusted diamond center? Is that a significant advantage? 

Mertens: Yes, we've had some of those end customers visit our offices here, so proximity definitely plays a role in the trustworthiness of this hub. And, of course, Antwerp’s rich history in the diamond industry. The craftsmanship for our stones is here in Antwerp, especially for large, valuable stones, which are often cut here, primarily by Diamcad. Many major brands are based in Paris and London, so Antwerp’s central location is also advantageous. 

What would you say are the biggest challenges right now? What is more difficult today than in the past? 

Mertens: KYC (Know Your Customer) and AML (Anti-Money Laundering) have become significant aspects of what we do and take a lot of our time. It’s not a massive problem for us; we’ve found our way in it, and AWDC has provided strong support. Trissia’s workshops are mandatory for everyone in the industry, even if they don’t seem relevant to your role. We’ve based our entire policy on AWDC’s guidance since they understand the Belgian legislation better and have reliable channels for legal compliance. We also use tools like Bureau van Dijk a lot. 

One of our main challenges at the moment is maintaining the prices of our large stones. About 86% of our total value comes from stones above 10.8 carats, but prices for those sizes have nearly halved in recent years. Since we’re a small producer, with annual production at only 130,000 to 140,000 carats, a significant drop in large stone prices puts us in a difficult position. Certain market shifts haven’t worked in our favor. 

What advice would you give to someone new to the diamond industry? 

Mertens: If you’re committed to this industry, you’ll find yourself in a good place. Once you’re in, it’s hard to leave. There are many opportunities, even in service companies, especially with the rise of AI and traceability solutions. Innovation is, therefore, crucial because the industry is only becoming more challenging. Natural diamonds are facing increasing pressure from synthetic lab-grown diamonds, especially for smaller stones, and as a result, the prices are under intense pressure. 

What’s your favorite spot in Antwerp outside of the diamond district? 

Mertens: I recommend the KMSKA, the Royal Museum of Fine Arts. I think it’s a beautiful place, and we’ve also taken our team there. The KMSKA has various exhibits—there’s something for everyone, even if you’re not typically a fan of museums. I often direct visitors to the Grote Markt, too, which has several excellent, traditional restaurants.  

Who would you like to nominate for the next “Faces of the Industry” feature? 

Mertens: I’d nominate Yves Warin from Brink’s Global Servces. He is a household name and does his utmost to get our shipments through the Diamond Office. I’m very interested in reading his story.